Tako sam video Rajnholda Mesnera.
pa onda ima ona:
Tako sam video Marsala Tita
Pa dobro ... koga ovaj covjek nije sreo u svom zivotu ?
A ja sam vidio Stipu Bozica na Kleku prije par godina ... bila neka skola alpinizma ... cak smo i porazgovarali(WOW!) ... a Stipe je vidio Mesnera puno puta ... pa ti dodje na isto ...
Sala mala. Dosta sam citao o Mesneru ... legenda alpinizma.
Njegova biografija(ukratko) za one koji ne znaju:
REINHOLD MESSNER
BIOGRAPHY
The most famous climber in the world today, Reinhold Messner has been climbing since he was five years old. Born September 17, 1944 in Villnöss in the South Tyrol/Italy.
By the age of 20, he had climbed most of the hardest routes in the Dolmites and Western Alps together with his brother Günther and had already started to formulate his dedication and philosophy in clean lightweight alpine-style climbing.
Günther was later killed by an avalanche near the base camp on Nanga Parbat after the first successful ascent of the Rupal Face. This was the Messner brothers first Himalayan expedition and a great personal lost for Reinhold that took many years to get over.
After the first oxygen less climb of Everest, his solo ascents of Nanga Parbat and Everest, being the first to climb all 14 eight-thou sanders and finishing the "Seven Summits" as the third person, he is a living legend among climbers.
Reinhold Messner: "As far as the public is concerned, since 1978 my sensational climbs - Everest without oxygen and Nanga Parbat solo - are unsurpassable." Messner himself consider the traverse between Gasherbrum I and II with Hans Kammerlander in 1984 to be his supreme Himalayan achievement.
In 1975 he and Peter Habeler made a statement that they were going to attack an 8,000 metre mountain in the same manners as done in the Alps. Reinhold declared what he meant as alpine style: the start of the climb is done from the bottom of the mountain and you carry all the gears with you on the way, if any bivouacs, they will be found on the way. No route preparation is done. Supplemental oxygen is not used.
They where successful on Hidden Peak, by leaving almost everything behind, climbing unroped they made a fast ascent through a new route. This was the second ever ascent of the mountain!
Something to remember about Messners climbs that really point out his capabilities is that until today he is the only person to have climbed the extremely dangerous Rupal Face of Nanga Parbat and probably the only person that ever truly will climb Everest alone. Today the mountain is crowded and if someone claims to have climbed it "solo", it means that it was done without help from others from the last camp to the summit. Not to forget is that his climb was done during the summer, regarded as monsoon season, something never done before.
Messner is also one of the few western people that claim to have seen the Yeti. He's said to have met it twice, the second time during one of his latest expeditions to Karakorum, now with pictures as proof!? They where promised to be published in his book about the Yeti - but no real proof were actually published. Instead he speculates that the Yeti is a large, long haired bear.
Some people say of Messner that his personality has changed after his high altitude climbs, they suspect brain damage due to lack of oxygen, and uses him as a warning example of what can happen when pushing it to hard on extreme altitudes. The famous Pakistani climber, Nazir Sabir who's been climbing with Messner, also says to have introduced Messner to the art of smoking hashish at high altitudes. If this is true, it's not hard to imagine that this must be an easy way of loosing brain cells by millions!! It's also said that Messner didn't like it...
Messner has not only faced fame, he is a very strong personality that never leaves other people without an opinion. Saying what he thinks and what he belive is true, more than once he has been the one people chose not to belive in. Or more precise, the didn't wanted to belive his version. When he failed on several expeditions in the mid -70: s, people where happy about his failures! He has also been accused for being a lunatic having brain damage due to lack of oxygen at high altitude.
Even among fellow mountaineers he faced a lot of criticism. After his two first expeditions to the Himalayas, he lost three team mates including his brother Günther. Upon returning home from those expeditions, he was accused by the public for leaving his friends behind to die; or like on
Gasherbrum, when he was accused for "climbing over bodies" to reach the summit. Later he and Hans Kammerlander buried the dead Austrian climber in a crevasse, even if it took them long time and decreased their own chances to make the celebrated traverse between Gasherbrum I and II.
Someone have calculated that Reinhold have had a 99, 9% chance of being killed on his expeditions while reading statistics. Perhaps, but what the statistics really show if that by having extraordinary physicals, psyche and a clear and calculated mind with the ability to take the right decisions in extreme situations, he has stayed alive where few, if any would have survived.
Messer who's become a wealthy man has no intention to settle himself in a risk-free environment in his Castle Juval in the Italian Alps, he keep on exploring, climbing, writing and being out on adventures, he says he's too old to learn something else.
Messner is not only a great climber. In 1990 he was first again, now by crossing the Antarctic continent on foot. Later it was time for the Arctic, however the expedition was unsuccessful, but a second try is on his mind...
By no doubt, Reinhold Messners memory as a top mountaineer and a true climbing hero will continue inspire generations of climbers for many, many decades ahead.
Latest climbing news: In the summer of year 2000, Messner returned to Nanga Parbat 30 years after his first successful ascent, this time to try an unclimbed route. With him was his brother Hubert, Hans Peter Eisendle and Wolfgang Thomaseth. After reaching very high on the mountain wall, they found the summit ridge too dangerous to continue.
© Per Jerberyd 1997-2002
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Ono sto je meni kod Mesnera pozitivno je njegova teznja da pobijedi sam sebe i svoje limite ... na granici moguceg, a opet spustiti se u dolinu ziv.
Je li moguce uopce ispenjati Mont Everest bez upotrebe kisika bio je njegov prvi izazov, pa onda penjanje solo po najvisim stijenama Himalaja itd. Uvijek korak dalje.
Postoji u njega i tkzv. fer-play odnos prema planini ... nema folirancije sa ekstra pomagalima i ekipama logistike ... planina i on ... pa ko pobijedi. Pozitivan primjer pristupa planinarenju.
Nego ... znaci, sreo bradonja bradonju, a?
Jel' ovako izgledao ?
Reinhold Messner:
Zanimljivo je da ljudi kada im se spomene rijec "planinarenje" odmah pomisle na visokogorske ekspedicije ili alpinizam ili slobodno penjanje po stijenama. O super teskim i opasnim vratolomijama ... da ne govorimo o smijesnim filmovima koji su "in" u zadnje vrijeme i smijurijama Stallonea ili Vertikalnih granica i inih pomodarskih gluposti(naci ozbiljan i realan film o planinarenju je slicno kao i naci takav film o ronjenju) ...
Evo jedne pricice o "drustvenom planinarenju" prilicno rasirenom kod nas. Cisto kao kontra Mesneru:
Medene puze i gnojštarke za supicu
**********************************Ljerka Antonić
... taj stari zgodni izraz "švimbike" oživio mi je gospodin Darko Fišer ovih dana, na pohodu Jankovcu, uplovljavanju u eksploziju boja raskošno sjajnog dana. Švimbike su kupaće gaćice. I jedna druga kovanica, njegov ju je poznanik sastavio u nekoj prigodi: "Vidi onu študenticu! Pravi dikinezer."
- Joj, vidi medenu puzu!, uskliknula je oduševljeno planinarka Mirjana na jankovačkoj poljani, približivši se ogromnom bukovom panju, izvaljenom u pravcu sasvim blizog vodopada Skakavca.
- Kako, kako?, upitali smo ...
- Pa, medena puza, puza medenjača, krasna gljiva, šteta što je nema više,to, s malo gnojštarki bit će fina supica, pojasni, berući s panja rumenu gljivicu u nakupinama, čisteći je odmah od zemlje i primjesa, kako to već rade gljivari znalci, zanesenjaci. Stavivši ih nježno u papir, jer gljivice bi pošizile u najlon kesi. Sutra ću skuhati finu juhu.
Siđosmo mi u Slatinski Drenovac pješke, pa u čekanju komotnog autobusa krenusmo u traženje plodina jesenskih. S bokorima grana i šarena lišća za neke buduće cvjetne aranžmane, s mladicama drenovačke jabuke, koja će u nekim budućim, vrlo pomnim kalemljenjima dati novu hrvatsku jabučnu sortu - Plodorodni Jandre Gold, iliti Zlatni Jandre (kratica od Jankovac i Drenovac), nek' se već sada zna zemljovidno i vremensko buduće podrijetlo nove sorte, koja će biti rasprodana na ino-tržištu.
Razmiljesmo se po krajputnim ravninama među stablima. Jabuka i oraha. Grane ogoljele od preranih vjetrova, u titraju tek rijetkih još listova, pod vlažnim lišćem male crvene jabuke, mnoge već u raspadu k zemlji, tek samo poneka zdrava, k'o ušminkana, mirisa prave, neprskane jabuke. A tek orasi. Vidljivi na vlažnom lisnatom sagu, ogoljeni u svjetlosmeđim ljušturama ili tamnim ovojnicama, ili samo osjetni, kvrgasti pod tenisicama. Samo se saginješ, skupljaš i stavljaš u vrećicu. Čudna je strast u tom pronalaženju i skupljanju. Učiš pohlepnost na orasima, jedan, još jedan, pa tamo, svuda uokolo, brzina skupljanja postaje proporcionalna ugledanosti ploda. Još, još, sami se umnožavaju i mame. Kao iz snova o skupljanju školjki po pustom žalu morskom, strast skupljanja, uvećavanja čarobne mase, kakva već da je. Pokušavaš se testirati. Dosta je. Za kolač, dva, konačno, ionako ne znam kad' ću to istucati i gdje. S kakvim kamenom ili čekićem, da krhotine ljusaka ne padaju uokolo, možda s posebnim pritiskivačem za orahe, no ili moraš dobro pritisnuti, ili stisneš energično otprve, ali ti se i koštunica i jezgra sasvim zdrobe, do neuporabe, sve do prvih malih bijesova. Konačno, odeš na pijac, pa kupiš što ti treba za gužvaru, biskupov kruh ili nešto slično s orasima. Očišćeno već. Ali, opet, nema li čara da sam sve to skupiš, stucaš, smelješ i pripremiš za raznorazne delicije. Sve sam.
...
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Namjerno sam prepisao ovaj ulomak iz jedne knjigice osječke planinarke Ljerke Antonić, iako imam podosta literature o planinama i planinarenju puno vrijednijeg sadrzaja. Svatko u planinama nalazi svoju zanimaciju i uživa na svoj način.
Nisam ljubitelj "društvenog planinarenja" i gradnje cesta duboko u planinu i makljanja i branja svega živog što ti se nadje pod rukom(tako je nestao Runolist iz Hrvatske, Velebitska Degenija se jos moze naci samo na par mjesta(tajna velika ... hi,hi,hi ... a ja znam gdje, ali vam necu rec'
)... no ... u Jugoslaviji je bio popularan upravo taj oblik planinarenja, sletovi, druženja, siroke narodne mase u dodiru sa prirodom itd.
Puno starijih ljudi koji su po planinarskim društvima nalaze čari upravo u takvim izletima.I tu nema ništa loše(ako beru orahe i jabuke
).
I to je planinarenje.
Edited by Vjekoslav, 01 August 2003 - 06:23.
